Departure

Departure

The day after I purchase Elektra, the guys arrive back from the North. We meet for drinks and between their tired faces and their stories from the road, they already look every bit the experienced biker. They congratulate me on my purchase, they ask how she rides. “Well, I haven’t actually ridden her yet.” Out [...]

Elektra

Elektra

Pictured: Petrified owner of a motorbike. Note the fear in her eyes. I've written about how I traveled to Sapa in part to get myself out of a bit of a sad funk. In truth I also traveled to Sapa to buy myself the time to gain the courage for the next part of my [...]

Sapa

Sapa

Now a solo backpacker again, I spend a few days in Hanoi gathering my thoughts and, quite honestly, feeling a little sad and sorry for myself. I don't socialize much, preferring to explore on my own. I debate whether I will go to Sapa or not. A few days into it, one of my friends [...]

Hanoi: First Impressions

Hanoi: First Impressions

Pictured: Nervous smile before indulging in cow tail soup.  Getting into Hanoi is like stepping through a portal into a drastically different world. As our Grab taxi emerges from the airport parking lot, we find ourselves barreling down a freeway, passing ramps and overpasses. There are more lanes than I can discern, and cars, trucks [...]